Haircut Numbers & Hair Clipper Sizes: Decrypting Your Barber’s Jargon

When going to the barber or using hair clippers to fashion your hair, simply going for a ‘regular’ cut is not enough. If you want a certain look, it is important to familiarize yourself with the know-how of haircut numbers and hair clipper sizes.

How short do you want your hair? To what length should the clipper be used? What should be the ideal length for your hair? These are questions you need to know the answers to, to get the perfect look that you are going for.

But more importantly, you also need to know the various differences in haircut numbers and hair clipper sizes.

Before attempting your next haircut, make sure to learn what these numbers and sizes entail.

How to understand haircut numbers?

Haircut numbers are represented via 1/8^th of an inch.

The length of the haircut follows an ascending order which the number the haircut represents. For example, number 2 will provide a larger length of a haircut than number 1.

Despite the seemingly minute difference, the parts of the inch do add up, and significantly affects how you want your hair to look.

How to understand hair clipper sizes?

Haircut numbers and hair clipper sizes, surprisingly, are the same thing.

Clipper guards are indicative of the clips that are used in electric trimmers. It is easy to spot the exact number of this size, for the number is always etched on the body of the clipper guard.

Almost all hair clippers will be found with 8 guard sizes plus a permanent guard, and these represent how much hair will be left after the trimming has been completed.

So, for example, if you go into a barber shop and ask for a number 3 haircut, the barber will be using a trimmer with a number 3 hair clipper size. 3/8^th of an inch of hair will be left on your scalp.

Different sizes of haircut numbers

There are a total of 9 different haircut numbers, starting from 0 to 8. Take a look at what they entail.

Number 0 – no clipper guard attached

While not always considered a part of the usual haircut numbers, the number 0 haircut is still something you should know about.

Simply put, it refers to when there are no guards attached to the hair clipper. This means there will be zero inch of hair left on the head when the shaving has been completed, i.e. a full shaved head.

The permanent guard that comes with hair clippers is used in this scenario for the shortest haircut that a shaver can possibly perform.

So, when going for a completely bald look, number 0 is the haircut to go for.

Number 1 – One-eighth of an inch

When going for a number 1 haircut, there will be 1/8th of an inch of hair left after shaving.

While this is not much longer than the number 0 haircut, it does produce some visually different results when done on those with shorter hair.

While number 0 is used for the shortest haircuts, number 1 is still a solid option if you want a more manageable buzz cut or short fades.

Keep in mind that number 1 will still show off a significant part of your scalp, so if you’re uncomfortable with that, this cut is not recommended.

Number 2 – One-quarter of an inch

The go-to choice for fades and buzz cuts, you can never really go wrong with a number 2 haircut.

At 1/4^th of an inch, the clipper guard will ensure your new hairdo remains short while not showing off your scalp.

This is also where a significant visual change starts being noticed in the haircuts, as the baldness is not as exposed. Because of this, those with thinning hair often go for this haircut.

However, the number 2 haircut works well on thicker hair as well, as it is a good form of short haircut that many prefer, while not cutting too much off.

Number 3 – three-eighths of an inch

Just slightly more than a quarter of an inch, number 3 haircut features 3/8^th of an inch of hair left behind after shaving.

This is actually the longest clipper size used by barbers to cut fades and is usually considered the closest look to the traditional buzz cut.

Number 3 haircut is also easier to maintain as it not only keeps the hair short but can often lack the options of stylization compared to other haircuts.

Number 4 – one-half of an inch

This is where a noticeable difference truly begins. At half of an inch, the number 4 haircut features what looks like the beginning of a crew cut.

Unlike numbers 1, 2 and 3, the number 4 haircut is unable to produce proper short buzz cuts. It is also usually the middle length in most hair clipper guards.

Number 4 haircut keeps a good amount of hair remaining on the head, and this trend continues as the numbers keep increasing.

Since this is the ‘medium length’ of haircuts, this is also a fairly popular choice. Its ability to keep a good amount of hair left on the head means there are more opportunities to stylize.

Hair parting is also available at this length, adding more options to versatility.

Number 5 – five-eighths of an inch

Number 5 and number 6 haircuts are usually paired together, mostly owing to the difference not mattering too much in terms of external looks.

Number 5 haircut leaves a relatively large amount of hair left after cutting, measured at 5/8^th of an inch.

Longer hair left behind by this haircut can be freely brushed and is usually preferred when tapering longer sides. It also does not create a lot of contrast between the sides and the main hair.

Both number 5 and 6 hair clipper guards are used for taper styling, though of course, owing to the shorter amount of leftover hair, number 5 is preferred for fringes and fades.

Number 6 – three-quarters of an inch

Number 6 haircuts leave behind 3/4^th of an inch of hair.

While technically larger than number 5, number 6 haircuts are also used for taper styling.

However, the increase in size means it is not possible to get the buzz cuts that shorter clipper guards can provide.

When doing number 6 haircuts, some barbers prefer to keep the front portion and set the rest of the hair at a lower level.

Number 7 – seven-eighths of an inch

Number 7 haircuts, with clipper guards leaving behind hair 7/8^th of an inch, are great for thick hair.

This is a good option for getting buzz cuts without using scissors at all. While the main hair remains relatively intact because of the larger hair length, smaller guard sizes work wonders on the sides, and they contrast each other quite well.

Even though this size is quite close to the whole inch, the cut can still be noticeable and it does provide a nice clean look.

Number 8 – one inch

Last but not least, there’s the clipper size that leaves behind a whole inch of hair.

This is the largest clipper size available for most trimmers, and because of the size, it is perfect for cutting thicker hair, especially those on the upper part of the head.

This cut pairs quite well when the sides fade with the shorter cuts, especially 1 and 2. The balance in size and contrast completes an ideal look.

However, it might feel as if the hair has not been cut at all, because of the large size of the hair left.

In that similar vein though, this haircut can be treated as a special trim for shorter hairs, and a manual shape adjustment of larger hairs.

When should I go for which haircut?

If you are wondering which haircut number is right for you, check out our suggestions below.

Number 0 – This is the main choice for a full shaved head. If you want a buzz cut or want to expose your scalp, this is the primary choice as well. Also recommended for those who want to keep their head cool during the summer heat.

Number 1 – If you don’t want to go full bald but still want to keep your head cool for summer or control dehydration. This is also a good look to mimic the bald look without completely shaving off the whole head.

Number 2 – If you’re slowly getting bald, this is a good haircut to consider. This is also considered one of the best versions of the ‘short hair’ cuts, as it can be stylized into more personalized buzz cuts. This cut is also quite popular for producing manageable short hair.

Number 3 – This is for those looking for a short haircut while still wanting to keep a bit of the hair on the head. This is also perfect for low-maintenance hairstyles, hence the popularity.

Number 4 – Those looking for a versatile, adaptable haircut can go for this one. This number allows hair parting, brush and crew cuts, so even if the haircut itself isn’t satisfactory, those with longer hair can choose to stylize the hair further.

Number 5 – This haircut is meant for those with longer hair wanting to taper the sides. Some looks that can be achieved with this haircut are gentleman’s cuts and parted styles.

Number 6 – This haircut size offers a range of styles for long hair, and like number 5, is also good for tapered sides. The sides are best done with shorter hair clipper sizes for a more optimum look.

Number 7 – Considered a good choice for crew cuts. Same as number 6, it is recommended to use smaller clip guards on the sides when using this haircut on the main, upper hair.

Number 8 – Best for trimming the larger amount of hair on the top of the head. If you’re looking for the least amount of shaving on your head, this is the look to go for, as it mostly keeps your original look intact. However, this haircut is least compatible with buzz cuts.

Mixing and matching

What is the kind of haircut style you are going for?

If you want a completely new look with lesser hair, the shorter numbers, usually 1 and 2, are ideal.

Bigger haircut numbers, especially 7 to 8, are great for thicker hair.

The mid-range ones, like 5 and 6, offer a good amount of versatility in stylization options.

Number 2 is great for buzz cuts, while number 7 is one of the better choices for crew cuts.

To combine several haircuts at once, try any of the ones from numbers 1 to 4 on the sides, and use number 7 or 8 on top.

Number 0 means there is no hair left, and number 8 means a good percentage of hair remains uncut.

Though these numbers may be confusing at first glance, knowing them means you are well-equipped in trying out fresh new looks every time you get a haircut. The knowledge will also help you prepare for buzz cuts and crew cuts much easily, and know how to match fades with your current look.

Final words

Even if you know the differences between each of the haircut numbers and hair clipper sizes, the choice will ultimately come down to preference.

Daily users will often use personal electric trimmers to get their cutting needs done. However, thicker hair requires better quality clippers that require an actual understanding of clipper guard sizes to properly utilize.

Whether you want a buzz cut, crew cut, fades or just go bald, haircut numbers and hair clipper sizes make all the difference in the world.